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12 years later, we have a portfolio of 30
about Domaines. The vast majority of them are husband-and-wife
teams dedicated to their vines and wines: in the vines they are
pruning, hand ploughing, and controlling yields by rubbing out
double buds and trimming. The same attention and care are deployed
in the cellar to ensure the wines are nurtured and bottled at
the right time and in the appropriate way. Since every vintage
is different, there can be no failsafe recipe for producing fine
Burgundy.
Judging young Burgundy - especially the Pinot Noir
- is a thankless task . The wines are inordinately fickle and
fidgety during the first few months in cask. Having a compact
number of suppliers means we can taste the wines every 15 days
on average. We compare the same cask of the same wine as it evolves
over time; we compare different casks of the same wine from new
barrels and older barrels, as they all have a bearing on the finished
wine. Tasting young Burgundy once in January or February - in
the immortal words of one of our principal suppliers is like attending
a fashion show for unfinished clothes. I liken it to only being
able to see one pixel of a computer screen: it does not give the
overall picture.
In greater Burgundy there are 10,000 growers sharing
100,000 acres and 100 or so appellations . We do not claim to
know all of them, but we maintain a constant and intimate working
relationship with 30 of them. We are utterly convinced of their
quality and their devotion to making the best possible wines they
can. What more can you ask of your partners ?
Beaune , August 2002 |